Rheem SP20172 Flammable Vapor FV Sensor Kit
$55.00
Last updated on December 10, 2024 10:43 am Details
- Includes: FV Sensor (AP13447-3), Cap Plug (AP13450-3), and 6″ Wire Tie.
- HVAC replacement part Rheem SP20172.
- Rheem/Ruud replacement FV sensor kit.
- This product replaces the AP13447-3 (this kit includes this sensor)
Specification: Rheem SP20172 Flammable Vapor FV Sensor Kit
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13 reviews for Rheem SP20172 Flammable Vapor FV Sensor Kit
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drunkensailor169 –
I was frustrated with a broken water heater during winter. Called in local tech to fix the problem. And they charged 160 to tell me it’s the sensor, and it cost another 230 to replace it, not to mention it will take 1 week for them to order the part. So I just look up online and purchased it right away with 3 days shipping. And bang. Now the water heater is running again.
Ashley –
Sadly these aren’t available locally anywhere for me, so I had to order online and I knew Amazon would be the fastest. If this sensor goes again (as it’s a common issue) I will be upgrading to a different water tank.
It sucked going days without hot water during a heat wave. But nothing against this product for that, it fixed the problem as soon as it arrived.
Rick T –
I have a Bradford White tank but the sensor is comparable with the Raheem. EMCO Heating was going to supply this same Raheem part for $89. So it was half price online. Identical and only really worth $5. But you need it to operate the tank. I removed the sensor and put the two wire leads in a plastic container with water in it to get tank working while I waited for the part to arrive. It turns out that water has the same resistance as this sensor. Easy temporary solution.
Ben G. –
I have a nearly new Rheem tank water heater from Home Depot with a Honeywell thermostat controller (auto ignition with an on / off and temp control knob only). The thermostat controller LED was blinking 7 times and the manual said it was either this sensor or the controller itself. Figured I would try this first as it is only $22 rather than $200. Anyway very easy to replace and fixed the issue. The only trick on the Honeywell controllers is that you need to power it on and then turn the temp control from coldest to hottest a bunch of times (like 5 to 10) within 30 seconds to make it “reset”. Plumbers must LOVE this because it is documented nowhere except some internet chat rooms. Anyway that is the trick, I have hot water again and I saved any plumbers fees.
AnonyMouse –
Rheem sent a replacement under the warranty and it metered at around 20K. The one from Amazon metered around 12K. When the 2nd failure after reset of the heater occurred, the sensor metered 10.8K. The first failure was the classic “7 flash”; the 2nd, 8 flashes but not sure what the difference really is (if any).
I wonder what the ‘value’ of this ‘feature’ is, since if you have the standard heater (and I had one before the contractors replumbed the vent for a tankless no one here could service) without the power vent feature, you don’t have the juice to provide for it since I think all you have is a thermocouple. That would mean that all non power vent heaters wouldn’t have this ‘essential’ safety feature anyway. Your non-electrically-powered heater can’t send you ersatz messages about such ‘problems’. Most live in ignorance with such ‘dumb’ heaters and never have their heaters shut down by Big Brother.
UPDATE: There’s more. Our HOA mulched the flower and shrub beds in our condo complex. Our water heater is in the garage. 24 hours later, the FVS was dead as a tent peg and the unit wouldn’t reset. Why? Well, composting mulch emits gases/vapors/whatever. One of these is methane. So – natural gas is… 70-90% methane. This means that you have to find a way to protect your FVS from mulch vapors.
It’s really, at the least, a problem with anything that has methane outgassing – from fertilizers to litter boxes. There may be other “vapors” to consider – a tech at Rheem suggested exhaust gases from vehicles in garages could wipe out the sensors (even though those gases are *not* flammable). Others warn of water vapor. The fact is that many people may not be able to afford the overhead of functionally maintaining these sensors in units that are located in water heaters in garages.
There are a few things you can do, but the first thing for most of us would be to complain to the manufacturer of the water heater that included this mechanism. The “sensor” is really a low voltage contraption with a wafer that absorbs certain types of molecules which change the resistance in the device. When the resistance goes out of range (usually too high, say somewhere above 45K ohms), a fault is detected and the “computer” in the “smart water heater” shuts your heater down with an FVS fault. Sometimes you can reset it with a procedure never found in your manual – sometimes not, if the wafer absorbs too much of the contaminant. It stays in the wafer and the sensor is toast.
It’s very convenient that a replacement for the FVS is offered here for a far less cost than through other sources, and is generally of same quality. It is not the fault of the supplier here, just a poor employment of a limited technology by the water heater manufacturers that were drawn in. If you don’t find a way to limit or replace this technological flaw, I would suggest keeping at the least two of these sensors on hand at all times and the price here is as good as I have found.
B. Batchelor –
My hot water tank quit. Numerous postings told me to look at this sensor as the culprit. I did call the installer of the tank (2016) and they wanted $250 just to get in their vehicle. Another outfit wanted $300. The “warranty” on the tank was useless since you have to pay for time and travel of the designated repairperson. Then they would have priced the part at maybe $150, and of course would have made their work look mysterious and beyond the perception of normal people. Be prepared to read LOTS of postings as there is a key sequence which will turn the tank on temporarily or when fixed. These parts should be designated as user-replaceable.
Chuck Battams –
What I like, when you have stores around you and your not able to get this particular product due to insurance issues. A little research and voila!!!
I rec’d next day delivery and connected to my hot water heater, HOT WATER!!! Fantastic, really don’t think about the values of life until something negative happens, such as “no hot water”
Thanks AMAZON
Frank –
The item was perfect. IMPORTANT FOR ALL WHO DON’T HAVE HOT WATER. Fill a cereal bowl halfway full of tap water, unplug the two spade connectors from the sensor, and place them on opposite sides of the water in the bowl. Turn the heat dial down to low. Turn the power switch to off and wait 30 seconds. Turn the power on and cycle the temperature switch from low to hot 5 times ending on hot. The heater will then resume giving you hot water. The sensor has a resistance of about 10-50 kOhms when it has not been exposed to natural gas or splashed with water during cleaning. Most people don’t have a 30 kOhm resistor at home to use as a temporary fix. This is fast, easy, and free. You won’t get electrocuted. It worked great while I waited for a replacement. I am a cardiac electrophysiologist with an MD and a PhD (the latter in physiology and biophysics). Another customer described using a resistor to fool this safety circuit. Tap water mimics the same resistance of the sensor. This works anytime, day or night.
Arturo Malacara Vazquez –
Muy buen producto y dificil de conseguir pero en Amazon lo encontre inmediatamente y a un excelente precio comparado con otros proveedores
Stefan Brunner –
Update: There appears to be large manufacturing tolerances. I ordered three, one measured 11k Ohm, another 20k Ohm, and a third 46k Ohm, at 80 degrees room temperature. Per spec, 20k appears about right. 11k is too low, and 46k is very close to 50k trigger point, I sent this one back. You may want to measure them first before replacing, otherwise you may get another trigger right away.
The function spec of the 25VS sensor that is made by Thermodisc/Emerson says that it trips at 50k Ohm. The temperature sensitivity curve in the function specs says that it would be tripped just under 160 degrees F. Its operating temperature is between 32 F and 150 F. This means in hot climates like Texas, the sensor could be tripped just by normal peak attic temperatures.
The function specs says it is a one-shot sensor, hence once it tripped, it may have to be replaced. But you can measure whether it is still good. After it cooled down, it should read between 7k and 25k Ohm in the absence of vapors. You may get it to reset if it reads under 45k Ohm, but it probably would trip again.
After you replaced the sensor, you need to reset the valve:
1. Turn off power to control
2. Restore power to control
For valves with buttons:
3. Press both buttons until lights blink and then press following sequence
4. Left, Right, Left, Left, Right, Left, Right, Right
For Honeywell valves with a dial:
3. Turn the GCV ON.
4. Within 30 seconds of turning the GCV on, turn the temperature dial all the way from one end to the other seven times.
LOW to VERY HOT is a count of one.
Back to LOW is a count of two.
Note: You may hear the unit try to start – you must complete all seven counts!
5. Unit should start to run normally.
6. Set dial to desired temperature.
Treezy001 –
Work good for my Bradford water heater with Honeywell valve. Saved me a ton of money on a service call. Didn’t have a resistor for the time I waited for the sensor to come in the mail so I just put both wires in a bowl of tap water and worked perfectly.. you will not get electrocuted from doing that.! Gonna order some more for back up..
jason –
A gas fitter wanted to charge 150$ to replace this part.
I ordered it, arrived the next day, and installed it in minutes.
6 months later it’s still working
MP –
I determined I needed a new Flammable Vapour Sensor (I accidentally destroyed the old one) and quickly determined that replacing one was an easy DIY job that would be VERY expensive if done by a professional plumber. I ordered the part (which I could not find anywhere other than Amazon) and got it quickly. The part worked great, but most importantly, the kit comes with everything you will ned including clear step by step instructions. The time from receipt to a functioning hot water heater was less than 15 minutes! Easy as pie and I saved a pile of cash!